St Helen Church, Cliff at Hoo

LOCATION: The church lies on the chalk at a little over 30 feet above O.D. To the north of the churchyard is the eponymous 'cliff' which drops down onto a large marshland area bordering on the Thames. Next to the churchyard on the north-east is the manor farm, earlier called 'Courtsole'.

DESCRIPTION: Much has been written and published about this very fine church, and A.R. Martin's 1929 account (with measured plan) of the church is excellent.

The only evidence for an Anglo-Saxon church here is in the identification of the name 'Clofesho', where many synods and councils took place in the 8th and early 9th centuries (ie. before the Viking period) with Cliffe-at-Hoo. There is, however, no strong evidence for this identification.

A church is mentioned in Domesday Book, and there can be no doubt that there was a church here from the later 11th century. The earliest above-ground visible evidence only dates from the very end of the 12th century, however, when the west side of the north transept was perhaps started. This transept must have been added to an existing north aisle and nave, though whether there was an earlier cruciform church here is uncertain. The 13th century crossing plan does not seem to suggest this. The northern jamb of the arch running from the south end of the north transept to the north aisle has been suggested as being, with its plain pointed arch above, of about 1190. It has bar-stops on it, and it certainly seems likely that the transepts, and a new aisled nave with a western tower were all planned by c. 1200 on a very grand scale. Both the transepts and the tower have large internal blank arches which frame the lancets and the tower has a quadripartite stone vault. In the transepts there is wall-arcading on both the east and west faces, and they were perhaps not completed until sometime in the early 13th century. Both transepts may have had two altars in each, though the single piscinas in each may suggest otherwise. The north transept extends slightly further to the east than the south one and it also has two small north-facing buttresses. The south transept has none, though its quoins are all later. The five bays of early 13th century nave arcading are also on a large scale and exceptionally they still retain a lot of their original painted red chevron decoration. There is also much other painted decoration on the upper nave walls, as well as some exceptional painted scenes in the transepts (rediscovered in 1864). These include a Christ-in-Majesty and the Martyrdom of Edmund, and they may well be the original decorations of the 13th century. The 13th century nave aisles were only about half of the width of the present, 14th century, ones, as the tops of the lancets now facing into the outer parts of the aisles show.

In the early 14th century the chancel was completely rebuilt on an equally grand scale. Not only do the three two-light windows in the north and south walls contain superb Decorated tracery of the Kentish style, but they also have internal hood-moulds and fine corbelled head stops, and a very fine vaulted piscina and sedilia. Externally the walls are very distinctive, having banded tabular flint and Ragstone. There are also fine large buttresses, and on the north-east side of the chancel was a low sacristy/chapel with diagonal buttresses. It was probably demolished at the Reformation, but its plan was discovered by excavation in 1978 by Peter Tester. The original east window of the chancel was destroyed in 1732 and rebuilt (? reconstructed) in 1884. Its original Reigate stone jambs were seen in the 1870's '15 feet apart'. There is also a small door in the middle of the south side of the chancel.

Soon after the chancel had been rebuilt, the outer walls of the nave aisles were demolished, and new walls were erected much further out. These walls are also buttressed and have equally fine striped flint and Rag facing. The north and south two-light windows are not as elaborate as the chancel windows (they are in a reticulated pattern), but the three-light windows in the west wall also have fine Decorated tracery. The nave clerestory and lancets were also made at this time. A south porch, also striped, was added at the same time, and the whole is surmounted by a (restored) crenellated parapet. It has been suggested that the porch, with its upper chamfer with windows with square hood-moulds, is a later, 15th century, addition. This cannot be the case as the striped masonry courses through. The windows may, however, have been added later - perhaps at the same time as the top stage of the tower which also has two-light Perpendicular windows with square hood-moulds. The spiral stair was perhaps first added in the 15th century (rebuilt 1864). When the wider aisles were built a new doorway into the south transept was made, and a new 'window' into the north transept. This transept later became the site of the unique 'Rectory Court' of the Archbishop and the fine late 14th century tower screen was perhaps moved from the North transept in the late 19th century. Another late 14th century feature is the fine wall-tomb on the north-east side of the chancel, and at about the same time the timber strainer arch in the nave (between the west walls of the transepts) was put in. The N. + S. transept end wall windows were also 15th century until removed in 1864. The Rood screen and loft (only the base of a late 15th century screen now survives) was perhaps first put in in 1413 (from the evidence of a will). The blocked doorway to the loft is still visible on the north. The font bowl, with concave octagonal sides and stem are also late 15th century. It was moved onto a new base at the west end of the S. aisle in the later 19th century. The earlier crane for its lid is under the S.W. nave arch, showing its original position.

There is a fine 1636 hour-glass stand (hour-glass stolen in the 1970s) and pulpit. Weather vane with IW 1700 on top of tower. The nave roof was rebuilt in 1730, and the chancel roof two years later. They are low-pitched and lead covered. Several heavy restorations were carried out in the 2nd half of the 19th century - chancel by Austin 1853, transepts and tower by St Aubyn 1864 when new N. + S. triple-lancets were put in and a new S.W. tower turret. Finally in 1884 the east window was reconstructed and all the roofs were reconstructed with steep pitches and tiled. Also new gables were made for the new roofs.

BUILDING MATERIALS: (Incl. old plaster, paintings, glass, tiles etc.):
There are possibly a few Caenstone fragments from the 12th century church. The early 13th century work is in Reigate stone (with ? chalk inside) and a little Caen. The walls are of Rag + ? Tertiary Sandstone rubble. The early 14th century work is in coursed tabular flint and Rag ashlar (two kinds of Rag on nave N. side) with Caenstone window tracery and Rag jambs and quoins.

For the 19th century restorations much Bathstone and heavy knapped flint was used.

Some early stained glass illustrated (in colour) in Lloyd (1877) - see infra. op.p.149, as well as the wall-paintings in Lee (1877) op.p. 158. The 13th century wall-paintings are very fine, and a watercolour by Tristram of the St Edmund scenes can be seen in the north transept. 6 ancient bells, rehung (+ 2 added) in 1864.

EXCEPTIONAL MONUMENTS IN CHURCH: Fine late 14th century tomb recess on N.E. side of Chancel. Also two 17th century brasses, as well as four large medieval grave-slabs (not in situ) at the west end of the north aisle, one with 'Lombardic' lettering.

CHURCHYARD AND ENVIRONS:
Size & Shape: Large rectangular area around church up to cliff on north, with recent extension to west.

Condition: Good

Boundary walls: Stone and rubble on west and south (? 19th century)

Building in churchyard or on boundary: 19th century charnel house in N.W. corner.

Exceptional monuments: Some good 18th cent. tombs and gravestones.

Ecological potential: ? Yes

HISTORICAL RECORD (where known):
Earliest ref. to church: Domesday Book, with two ministers in charge.

Evidence of pre-Norman status (DB, DM, TR etc.): ? 'Minster Church'
Chapel of West Cliffe attached.

Late med. status: Rectory and a peculiar of the Archbishop of Canterbury within the exempt deanery of Shoreham, but exempt from the Commissionary until 1845. Perpetual Vicarage instituted, as well, at an early date.

Patron: The Archbishop

Other documentary sources: Test. Cant. (W. Kent, 1906), 12 mention the burials of two Rectors a the beginning of the choir: Robert de Walton (1376), and Thomas de Lynton (1387-8). Another will of 1413 mentions repairs to the chancel and Rectory house. Also repairs to new roof of vestibule and the image of the crucifix and B.V.M. + St John above the 'solar' with 'superior and inferior' aisles and table of the 'superior' altar, which is dedicated in honour of St Cross.' This must relate to the Rood screen area.
+ Hasted III (1797), 511-5.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL RECORD:
Reused materials: Some reused stone (Caen + Tufa) - ? from earlier church

Previous archaeological work (published): Excavation of foundations of N. side of N.E. Chapel in 1978 by Peter Tester. See Arch. Cant. 96 (1980), 369 - 372 with plan.

SURVIVAL OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL DEPOSITS:
Inside present church: ? Good

Outside present church: Good (see 1978 excavation above) though a large drainage ditch was dug in the late 19th century along the west and south sides.

RECENT DISTURBANCES\ALTERATIONS:
To structure: A very large and ugly heater has been put into the N.W. corner of the tower, with large ducting coming out from it to run across the top of the tower screen. The quoins of the two S.E. buttresses of the chancel, and the upper quoins of the S. transept have been renewed fairly recently).

To floors: New floor laid in N. transept in 1987.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL ASSESSMENT:
The church and churchyard: This an exceptionally fine early 13th and 14th century church (though over-restored in 1853, 1864 and 1884) which reflects its medieval status of being a 'Peculiar' answerable only to the Archbishop himself. It is also of great importance for its surviving original wall paintings. This is one of the finest churches in the diocese.

The wider context: The Decorated architecture in the windows and sedilia of the chancel are of very high quality having direct parallels in the S.E. transept of Rochester Cathedral. The c. 1200 work of the nave, transepts and west tower also perhaps follow on from the eastern arm of Rochester Cathedral.

It is possible that a major early Anglo-Saxon church underlies this one, if 'Clofesho' was Cliffe-at-Hoo.

REFERENCES: I G Lloyd, 'The parish church of Cliffe-at-Hoo,' Arch. Cant. 11 (1877), 145-157: also E H Lee 'On a mural painting in St Helen's church, Cliffe-at-Hoo,' Arch. Cant. 11 (1877), 158-9, and Canon Scott Robertson, 'The Rectors of Cliff-at-Hoo,' Arch. Cant. 15 (1883), 217 - 254, and H R Lloyd, 'Cliffe-at-Hoo Rectory House' Arch. Cant. 15 (1883), 255 - 8 and appendix on 'Notices of Cliffe-at-Hoo,' pp. 259 - 272. A R Martin, The church of Cliff-at-Hoo,' Arch. Cant. 41 (1929), 71-88 + plan, and P J Tester 'Remains of the Medieval Sacristy of St Helen's church, Cliffe-at-Hoo,' Arch. Cant. 96 (1980), 369 - 372 + plan. For early 14th cent. Rectory see also K Gravett in Collectanea Historica (1981), 187-191 + plan + S Glynn The Churches of Kent (1877), 347-9, he visited in 1857.

Guide Book: Guide leaflet (Anon. undated) with very rudimentary plan (c. 1990).

Photographs: View from W. in Kent Church 1954, 15 and inside looking E. ibid, 59 Pre -1864 of church on wall at west end of S. aisle.

Plans & drawings: Good measured plan in A R Martin (see above), Two plans of the church are also noted in the parish records, and Petrie view from S.SW. in very early 19th century, showing Perp. S Transept window and low pitched nave + aisle roofs. Internal view (engraving) looking NE with earlier 'flat' roofs in Lloyd (1877) supra.


DATE VISITED: 7/6/93                                      REPORT BY: Tim Tatton-Brown