St Margaret Church, Rochester

LOCATION: About ¼ mile S.S.W. of the old south gate of Rochester on the road to Borstal and Wouldham at just over 100ft. OD and above the steep slope down to the east bank of the Medway.

DESCRIPTION: Hasted in the late 18th century describes the church as having `one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel....... The chancel at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance'.

The original church is shown in a view by Petrie from the south-west with a nave and chancel and a south aisle/chapel, as well as another chapel on the south of this, confirming Hasted's description. By 1844, Glynne could write that `St Margaret's Church has been wholly rebuilt, except the Tower, in an Italian un-ecclesiastical style, which ill accords with the ancient tower'. The nave was totally rebuilt in 1823-4 as `a big rendered box' (John Newman's phrase) leaving the original chancel and south-east chapel for William Twopeny to draw it in 1839. He shows herringbone masonry in the south wall of the chancel, which suggests a late 11th century date. There is also a lancet in the south wall of the chancel and a blocked east window to the south-east chancel. This has a hood-mould suggesting an early 14th century date. Below this window is the faint outline of a blocked round-headed doorway. This was all swept away immediately when R. C. Hussey rebuilt the chancel in 1839-40. The decorated east window was added in 1872 in Bath stone.

This evidence suggests that there was an original Norman nave and chancel (on the north) with a south-east chapel (for Great Delce), and probably a south aisle, with attached to its south side another small chapel. The main entrance to the church was presumably on the north.

To the west of the nave was a large mid-15th century tower which still stands. It is made of Ragstone rubble (with a little flint) and diagonal buttresses to the west. The top crenellated parapet, with flint and Rag chequer in the merlons, may be a bit later, i.e. of the early 16th century. Perpendicular west window under tower (of Ragstone, with cement repairs to the hood), with west doorway below. Single-light trefoil headed windows in first stage with square hood-moulds, and 2-light trefoil-headed windows (under 4-centred hood mould) in upper (Belfry) stage. All of Ragstone with some cement (and pebble-dash) repairs to quoins. Semi-octagonal turret on N.E. side.

BUILDING MATERIALS (Incl. old plaster, paintings, glass, tiles etc.): Only visible in the tower, which is almost entirely of Kentish Ragstone, and a small amount of knapped flint. The whole of the rest of the church is covered in heavy brown render. East window in Bath stone.

EXCEPTIONAL MONUMENTS IN CHURCH: Brass of a priest (half-length) for Thomas Cod (ob. 1465) with rhyming Latin inscription, `capmanili succurrit tempore vili'. Various other 17th century and later wall monuments.

CHURCHYARD AND ENVIRONS:
Size & Shape: Large rectangular area on the ridge top around the church, with the road )on the east side

Condition: Mown grass (+ some rose-beds). Some chest-tombs are, however, being damaged by ivy growth and sycamores.

Boundary walls: Brick boundary walls all around with all gravestones put up against them.

Building in churchyard or on boundary: Modern lychgate on the east to the road.

Exceptional monuments: Some good 18th century chest tombs.

Ecological potential: ?Yes - some large chestnuts and fastigiate yews in the churchyard.

HISTORICAL RECORD (where known):
Earliest ref. to church: Late 11th century.

Evidence of pre-Norman status (DB, DM, TR etc): None, though a mid-9th century church of St Mary on the east side of Rochester is mentioned in an Anglo Saxon charter.

Late med. status: Vicarage from the later 13th century. Originally only a chapel to the parochial altar of St Nicholas in the cathedral.

Patron: Disputed with the bishop (and later Strood Hospital) until 1255, when it was settled on the Prior and Convent of Rochester and after the Dissolution, the Dean and Chapter.

Other documentary sources: Hasted IV (1798), 174-182.
Test. Cant. (West Kent, 1906), 64-5 mention the `payntyng and gyldying of the Rode lofte' in 1524. Also money given in 1457 `ad facturam unius novi campanilis'

ARCHAEOLOGICAL RECORD
Finds from churchyard: Hasted records the finding in the reign of Charles II of `a coronet, set round with precious stones'. It may have been Anglo-Saxon.

SURVIVAL OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL DEPOSITS:
Inside present church: Probably good, except for burial vaults. Most of the earlier church foundations lie below the 19th century floors.

Outside present church: Good

ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL ASSESSMENT:
The church and churchyard: Except for the 15th century west tower, the whole of the medieval church was rebuilt in the 19th century unfortunately.

The wider context: One of a group of fine 15th century towers - a landmark.

REFERENCES: S R Glynne Notes on the Churches of Kent (1877), 319.

Photographs: In E. R. Swain, William Twopeny in Kent (1986), 94-5 are two photos of the exterior of the church, as well as Twopeny's 1839 view from the south-east.

Plans and drawings: Petrie view from the S.W. in the early 19th century (before rebuilding), still showing much ivy on the tower.

Visited 1990’s                                 REPORT BY: Tim Tatton-Brown